Start with a 2x6 and outline the ski against on edge of the board. Cut the 2x6 to fit the profile of the ski.

Note that the space between "A" and "B" is cut to allow for different length skis (shown in more detail below).


Because the end of the board is cut to match the curve of the tip of the ski, all skis, regardless of length, will have the tip line up in the same position. This means a shorter ski will have the binding shifted more to the right, and longer ski will have the binding shifted more to the left. This why you should allow plenty of space between "A" and "B".

However, if you are waxing skis shorter than 170 cm you can put the ski in "backwards" (this ski is 145 cm) as long as the space between "A" and "B" is cut deep enough to allow the front of the binding to fit near the left side.

This is looking down on the bench "clamp" which is made out of an old bicycle wheel quick release skewer. Try to use plywood or hardwood (red oak in this case) as pine can split. A bolt with a wing nut will work as well. When you are done you can cut "holes" in either end of the board to reduce weight, but don't go overboard, as if you lug your "bench" around, you will probably drop it at least once, and it may break.